Laminate flooring – a saga of smoke, noise and frustration

Laminate flooring – a saga of smoke, noise and frustration

It seems obvious, doesn’t it? Laminate? Well, to cut laminate you use the finest tooth blade you can get and I had almost 200 m2 of flooring to get down. So when I started cutting my Formica brand flooring and discovered my (not so sharp) 60 tooth blade was grinding through the 10mm boards, I invested immediately in a quality 80 tooth blade.

This end result was a long way off!
This end result was a long way off!

Hmmmm… a terrifyingly short time later, my $55 investment was literally burning its way through the boards. My first call, of course, was to Formica. I might as well have been asking how to bake a cake – they didn’t have the faintest idea what should be used to cut the boards. Que?

A quick call to world # 1 blade maker, Irwin, confirmed that, yes, I needed TCT and kerf. The smoking blade had both! The suggestion from their resident expert was that I try a 100 tooth blade and keep it lubricated.

Off I went to my local tool specialist and duly invested $75 – this time on the best blade Irwin offered and another $10 on a stick of Mother Nature’s finest beeswax. No more than twenty cuts later, Irwin’s best was starting to smoke too! And let me clarify one thing, these boards were only 116mm wide!

Narrow board laminate flooring showing a typical 'click' connection.
Narrow board laminate flooring showing a typical ‘click’ connection.

 

Over to Bosch and another $75 investment, this time in a 96 tooth triple chip blade. Surely, this would do the job. Yet again, we were burning our way through the boards within a very short time.

What to do? That was three blades and better than $200 and no more than 30m2 of flooring laid. My budget didn’t allow for $1,500 in blades so I called a sharpening service. Shock! Horror! The quote to sharpen the blades was only marginally less than buying them new!

I called my local tool shop. They called Carba-Tec. Surely they would have a solution. They didn’t!

We decided to persevere with the 96 toother as long as possible. Let me tell you, that wasn’t long. We put the 100 tooth Irwin back in and used that until there was more smoke than sawdust. Finally, it was down to the 80 tooth again. Imagination, or was it really lasting longer than the 100 and 96 teeth blades? Not a lot longer, but definitely longer.

The chippie I was working with suggested we try his 60 tooth blade – it was well used but still had a reasonable edge on it. Neither of us expected it to last long and we weren’t disappointed BUT, it had cut as many boards as the new 100 tooth blade had before we discarded it!

Was this a ‘light bulb moment’? As counter-intuitive as it seemed, I went and bought a new 40 tooth TCT blade. You guessed it… although it was getting pretty tired at the end, a $25 blade saw us through the entire job.

Ah yes, but what about chipping, I hear you ask. In fact, chipping was almost non-existent up until the very end of the job when it started to become obvious. But even then, chips were less than 2 – 3mm and easily hidden under the skirting.

So there you have it… less is more. An inexpensive (quality) 40 tooth TCT blade is the correct blade for the job. But don’t bother asking the experts. They haven’t got a clue.

Don’t know what laminate flooring is?

A laminate floor is a manufactured flooring made by fusing several layers of materials into a single board.

The common components of all laminate flooring
The common components of all laminate flooring

The central layer of the board is almost always high density fibreboard, but sometimes only medium density fibreboard (MDF) is used. Better quality boards are moisture resistant but are never recommended for wet area use.

The central core supports the weight and stress of foot traffic and will affect the durability and stability of your floor. Strength and stability is further ensured by the laminate’s bottom stabilizing layer. Like most things in life, you get what you pay for.

Next, a decorative layer is fused on top of the core. Just like a laminate benchtop, the decorative layer is actually a photographic image – usually a woodgrain but sometimes stone or terrazzo  – that is printed on to a type of “living paper”.

Finally, a transparent wear layer is applied over the décor layer and this is then given one or more coats of aluminium oxide. The aluminium oxide surface provides the incredible wear resistance against scratches, burns, dents and stains that has made laminate flooring so popular. (OK – for our American members, it’s aluminum oxide!)

Then we get to the locking system. There are various patented systems but they all share a common theme. It’s the system or the way the laminate boards will click and lock together to form your floor in a glue-free method.

The ‘click system’ is what makes installing laminate floors something that any average home-owner can do themselves.

Note that the boards must be laid on a special underlay which acts as a noise suppressor and also ‘softens’ the feel underfoot. I recommend a minimum 3mm (1/8″) underlay with a vapour barrier. The underlay will also help with any minor imperfections in the original floor although major challenges will need to be fixed before laying your floor.

A final suggestion (or two)…
All laminate flooring comes in lengths of about 1,300mm (51″) with each pack covering around 1.4 m2 (14 sq. ft.). This makes the packs and individual boards easy to handle while also minimising wastage.

Thicknesses range from 6mm (1/4″) through to 13mm (1/2″). It is essential that you make sure you can get the correct trims for your chosen floor before buying your laminate. My chosen flooring was 10mm. My retailer (Bunnings) told me after I had paid and taken delivery, that 10mm trims were not available. I had to spend hours modifying 13mm trims to get a satisfactory result. To add insult to injury, I later discovered that 10mm trims do exist but that Bunnings chose not to stock them because, according to the Formica Industries rep I spoke with, the profit margins do not meet Bunnings requirements!

Note that in regard to thicknesses, my experience has shown me that you need to go to a minimum 8mm board to get a quality ‘under foot’ feel.

Finally, we get to widths!  The width of the ‘planks’ can vary from the ‘narrow’ boards from 115mm – 125mm (4 5/8″ – 5″) to ‘wide’ boards of around 230mm – 250mm (9″ – 10″).

Wide boards can be grooved to have the appearance of a narrow board or be solid as shown here.
Wide boards can be smooth jointed as shown here or grooved to create the illusion of narrow boards.

In the job described in this post, I used the narrow boards, which, with their bevelled edges look beautiful as a finished job. However, and it’s a very big however, there is insufficient ‘grip’ between the boards and the underlay to prevent movement between adjoining boards. This is not something I have ever experienced with the wider boards. The bottom line is that I would always choose a wide board for any future project I do.

A grooved wide board. Expect to pay more for the enhanced appearance.
A grooved wide board. Expect to pay more for the enhanced appearance.

 

I hope that helps you with your ‘should we or shouldn’t we‘ thoughts. Laminate flooring is a wonderful, robust, easy to maintain product. But it is not perfect.

While you’re visiting, why not check out David’s ‘Easy Build Decks and Verandas‘ blog?

Close Menu
Close Panel